The New and Improved Wat Traimit

Posted by Greg

March 24, 2008

The Toronto Star, March 2008

For decades, Bangkok’s Chinatown has been one of the most popular draws for tourists visiting Thailand’s bustling capital city. The sidewalks that line the traffic-clogged streets are crowded with vendors selling everything from live seafood to unidentifiable fruit to gold-paint Mandarin calligraphy on demand, and tiny streets (called sois in Thai) jut off at crazy angles every ten meters or so, disappearing into shadows, their exit points a total mystery.However, many a visitor to this area has probably walked right past one of Bangkok’s most beautiful attractions without even realizing it was there, owing to the fact that it’s kept in a ho-hum looking temple without the fanfare that you’d think would accompany an item so out of the ordinary, especially one with such an interesting history.

The story goes like this: sometime in the late 1700’s, a large number of Buddha images were brought to Bangkok from the provinces of the newly united kingdom of Siam. One of them - a dirty plaster Buddha statue about 3-metres tall - ended up in a seldom-visited temple near the Chao Phraya River. There it sat, largely ignored until the temple was abandoned nearly 130 years later, and the statue moved to its current location. One day in 1955, as it was being moved to accommodate construction, the statue slipped from its ropes and came crashing to the ground, cracking the plaster. It was only then that workers, at first horrified, noticed a brilliant yellow glow from inside the statue and realized that it wasn’t made of plaster-covered cement at all.

It was made of gold - 5.5 tons of it.

Scholars have dated the image - now free of its plaster covering and on display in all its shimmering, golden glory - to the 12^th or 13^th century, and believe that it was disguised in order to hide it from the Burmese armies that enjoyed invading Thailand at the time. Its existence was hushed up and, over time, eventually forgotten. Its full name - Phra Buddha Maha Suwan Patimakorn - is barely pronounceable for foreigners, so most people simply call it ‘The Golden Buddha.’

Its value has been pegged at roughly CDN$15 million.

Long housed in a small, dusty chapel that can barely accommodate a dozen kneeling worshippers, the image is set to move later this year into a purpose-built chapel that will tower over the old one. It’s a project that’s been a long time coming.

“Historic or religious sites in Thailand are registered as national treasures by the Fine Arts Department,” said a project spokesman. “Even small modifications are prohibited without a lengthy assessment process, which is why it’s taken such a long time for the temple to get an upgrade.”

The 600-million baht (CDN$18.7 million) brick and marble hall will stand 60-metres tall and boast ornate flourishes particular to Thai architectural design, and be topped with a seven-tiered metal chatra (a ceremonial umbrella-type structure which represents either enlightenment, royalty or nothing at all, depending on whom you ask). The statue of Buddha will be housed on the fourth and topmost floor, while the rest will be used for religious activities, a community museum, parking and general crowd control.

But while many guidebooks, websites and Bangkok’s infamous taxi and tuk-tuk drivers say that the statue is made of solid gold, and the Guinness Book of World Records certifies it as ‘The World’s Largest Gold Buddha’, the truth is a bit less fantastic.

“Well, it’s true the image is undeniably stunning,” says the project spokesman, “but the only part of it that is truly 100% gold is the flame-like halo on top of the Buddha’s head. However, the body was cast in an alloy with a very high gold percentage, as pure gold is too malleable even for jewellery - a large, heavy statue like this would be out of the question.”

The shiny, slippery-looking image is truly a sight not to be missed if you’re in the area. Its narrow eyes stare down upon you, its slender waist, long earlobes and slightly protruding belly button all hallmarks of the Sukhothai style, widely considered to be the most graceful and refined example of Thai art and sculpture.

The statue sits in the ‘subduing the Mara’ posture - cross-legged, left hand palm-up on lap, the fingers of the right hand lightly brushing the ground. This posture represents steadfastness, loyalty and enlightenment; highly sought after traits for followers of Buddhism.

Fittingly, the temple built to house one of Thailand’s most revered icons will be opened to the public on the same day that the country celebrates their most revered leader. December 5, 2008 will mark the 81^st birthday of the Thai King, HM Bhumibol Adulyadej. Celebrations will be large and memorable - just like the new temple.

Factbox

Where: Take the subway (MRT) to Hualumphong Station and leave via exit #1. Walk northwest for 70m along Rama IV Road (ignoring anyone who tells you the temple is closed), and then turn left on Trai Mit Road - the temple is 50m ahead on the right.

Dress: Please dress properly - no shorts, tank tops, spaghetti straps or flip-flops.

Cost: 20 baht donation (CDN$0.70) - feel free to give more.

Tips: Thai temples are magnets for dishonest tuk-tuk drivers and ‘friendly’ locals who will try to railroad you into buying overpriced junk or tell you the attraction is closed. Just ignore them, smile politely, and keep walking.