Chiang Mai

Posted by Greg

February 28, 2008

The Toronto Star, December 2007

Despite its vibrant atmosphere and cultural significance, Bangkok, Thailand’s sprawling, steamy capital, is often too much for newly arrived visitors. The traffic, the heat, the noise and the crowds often compel different people from different corners of the world to ask the same question – where do I go for a break?

Those without the desire to squander their days lying on a beach should immediately look to Chiang Mai, Thailand’s historic ‘northern capital’. Located 700 kilometres north of Bangkok, it lacks the sun and surf of southern Thailand and the glitzy clubs of Bangkok, but it shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s a picturesque, breezy city – quieter and more intimate than the southern capital – with a laid back vibe and plenty of options for adventure both in and around the city.

Founded in 1296, it served as King Mengrai’s base of power as he led the powerful Lannathai Kingdom to and fro around this region. But unceasing wars took their toll, and in 1558, the Burmese took control of the city until they were driven out by a newly energized Siamese Kingdom in 1774; Chiang Mai finally became Thai.

First-time visitors often expect a quiet provincial town, but are surprised to see narrow, busy roads, hip university students talking on brand new Nokia cell phones, construction cranes by the dozens and the latest Hollywood blockbusters at the theatre. The sprawling, world-famous night market sells everything from bulk fruit to hand crafted silver jewellery to pirated DVD’s directly to your video iPod.

But that’s not to say that Chiang Mai has forgotten its roots. It’s proud of its dense history and noble Buddhist tradition, and garners passionate loyalty from those who live here.

“Deciding where to live in Thailand for us was about finding quality of life,” says Chris Lowenstein, founder of Living Films, one of Thailand’s busiest movie production companies. “When we make films, we’re always ready to shoot wherever the script calls for - often outside of Bangkok anyway… so why not live where it’s most comfortable? Our house is surrounded by rice fields, yet western-style grocery stores and digital movie theatres are only ten minutes away.”

Another long-time expat agrees. “I like the climate in the north, the mountains and the rivers, the small towns and the variety of cultures: Thai, Lanna, Shan, Yunnanese, not to mention all the hill tribes,” says Joe Cummings, long time Lonely Planet Thailand author. “It’s Thailand at its most diverse, and the centre of it all is Chiang Mai.”

From the top of Doi Suthep, the misty peak that rises up just west of the city, Chiang Mai looks like a child’s Lego project, save for the slight haze and airplanes slowly climbing away from the airport. The snaking, 10-kilometre road to the top ends at the magnificent Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, the gilded Buddhist temple that draws thousands of visitors and worshippers every month. Legend says that an albino elephant carrying a holy relic climbed the mountain and died on the spot where the temple now stands; many Thais consider it one of the most sacred sites in Thailand.

Safron-robed monks mingle with Nike-clad tourists as they walk through the hazy clouds of incense smoke, while the deep chime of prayer bells resonate in the background. Most visitors get to the temple via its 309-step staircase, which is guarded by two intricate Naga statues, a mythical dragon-headed snake from Buddhist lore (don’t worry – there’s also a cable car to the top for a few baht). Hawkers vie for your attention, selling everything from silk paintings to replica antique swords to barbecued sausages.

About 95% of Thais are Buddhist, a religion that many visitors find interesting yet strangely inaccessible, but this doesn’t have to be the case. A popular program held at many temples in and around Chiang Mai (and the city has a lot) is the drop-in style ‘Monk Chat’ which serves to educate – not indoctrinate – curious visitors about Buddhism. At temples like Wat Chedi Luang or Wat Suan Dok, visitors can chat one-on-one with monks and ask questions about their order, their temple, their life – even chat about soccer and their favourite movies!

“I wasn’t quite sure what to expect,” says Jennifer Carlson, a visitor from San Francisco traveling around Asia. “I was excited at the opportunity but at the same time was a little hesitant, given that I knew nothing about Buddhism. The monk I talked to, Chenda, was a bit shy at first, but it was very interesting and I left wanting to know more. The follow up emails from him were also very nice and I hope that we can stay in touch.”

Increasing tourist dollars have allowed huge upgrades in the infrastructure of the area. Extensive road networks are plied by buses, mini-vans, rented motorcycles and old Russian jeeps, ferrying travellers and Thais alike to every corner of this corner of Thailand. Many visitors head to the misty mountain town of Pai, a laid back hippie retreat with great food and, strangely, a vibrant live music scene. Others opt for a trip to Chiang Rai, the smaller cousin a few hours northeast, or a ride up chilly Doi Inthanon, the highest peak in Thailand where a thin layer of ice on still puddle water once made the front page of the Bangkok Post.

But all this growth doesn’t come without risks. Indeed, many have said that Chiang Mai is losing its charm, but Cummings, who has lived in Asia since the 1970’s, disagrees.

“Chiang Mai’s charm resides in its people and culture, and their charm remains strong. Plus the city is constantly being reborn. Right now there’s a noticeable renaissance in the art and design world here, and a renewed northern pride. That’s where the charm is.”

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